Tasty Tangents

A chicken panino at the Rome airport.

Home again, home again
Sept. 12, 2009.

Famous last words…”Even at the airport the pizza is better.” I think it sums up our gustatory experience in Italy, where what you eat anywhere is better than any pre-packaged, mass produced meal you’ll find in North America. A place where the pizza is equally delicious on every corner and topped with fresh ingredients. It’s a place where a bakery will give regulars extra pastries near the end of the day, because they refuse to sell them a day old and risk losing customers. The competition is stiff and freshness counts, as it should be.

Appetizers galore
Sept. 11, 2009.

If there’s anything Italians do well it’s antipasti – appetizers. We arrived for a visit with family to find a table laden with every appetizer you can imagine. Cheese with honey, cheese wrapped in prosciutto, cured sausage, several kinds of stuffed pizza, pinwheels of all kinds made with egg crepes and stuffed with ham, cheese, spinach and more, plus melon and chicken salad, if I remember correctly. I was full before we even hit the first course. It was an amazing spread in both variety and quantity, and I can’t imagine trying to prepare anything as grand.

Pasta al pomodoro

When in Rome…
Sept. 10, 2009.

After an entire afternoon facing the tourist crowds at the local sights and local McDonalds in Rome, it was time to join my godfather and some of his friends for a meal. We ate at “La Fraschetta,” a small osteria outside the downtown core just south of the Tevere River. It was almost like the start of an old joke…three couples walk into a bar, one Canadian, one Italian and one Dutch…

Once we settled in, our host took care of the ordering (with some consultation) and the food and wine flowed. We started with a bruschetta of tomato slices on toasted crusty bread with the best olive oil I’ve ever tasted. That was followed by a second appetizer course of “Suppli” (rice balls stuffed with cheese, breaded and fried) and codfish fritters. That was just for starters. Next I had spaghetti in a basic tomato and basil sauce, but the portion was enormous. I barely finished half, and since no one was prepared for a full second course, we opted for a platter of cheeses and some amazing foccacia bread fresh from the wood-burning oven. We topped off the night with a completely different Tiramisu than we’d had in previous days (this is the third, if you’re keeping count), a much creamier and more egg-heavy concoction that was delicious. (By the way, if anyone has any ideas for new words to describe things that taste good, please let me know.) Did I mention we followed dessert with coffee and “Limoncello,” a lemon liqueur? Then we were finally done.

A special kind of love
Sept. 9, 2009.

Italian grandmothers, or Nonnas, like other grandmas, seem to put a special kind of love into their cooking. And it’s no surprise they pass it on to their children and grandchildren. We had a delicious lunch today, hosted by my cousin’s family and her mother, my great aunt, who is one of the few relatives left from my grandmother’s generation. Prosciutto and melon was the classic starter, then a homemade lasagna came next that was amazing. It is truly incredible how a classic recipe can vary so much from one family to another and still be true to the original flavour.

Next we had our first taste of lamb on this trip, which is odd because it is such a popular meat here, as the mountainous terrain lends itself far better to the agile animals than lumbering cows. Anyway, lamb and potatoes roasted in the oven and covered with generous amounts of olive oil were accompanied by a fresh tomato and celery salad. We concluded with fresh fruit and a “Macedonia” cake with fruit and cream filling, fresh pastries and, of course, coffee. It was all amazing.

Needless to say we opted for a light dinner. Just one course even…gelato.

Why can’t I remember it’s Tuesday?
Sept. 8, 2009.

It might be the big mid-day meal we had after a great morning of sightseeing. We saw the “Telespazio” centre where a great deal of satellite communication, both land-based and interstellar. At the other end of the spectrum, we saw the growing industrial farms in the local valley that grow potatoes, fennel, onions, tomatoes, beets and lettuce, among other things. It was fascinating to learn that after the crops are harvested, locals are encouraged to go and pick what the machines have left on the field, though few still take advantage of the free, fresh produce.

But back to the meal. After a simple olive appetizer, we started with made-from-scratch lasagna (pasta included) that was delicious. Not too thick or overly cheesy, it was amazingly fresh for what can sometimes be a heavy first course. Second was breaded fried chicken and veal cutlet alongside roasted sausage, fresh bread, peas and roasted green and yellow peppers, with the veggies all coming from our hosts’ backyard. (Which more closely resembles a small farm plot, but I digress.) Next was a variety of fresh fruit (also from the garden, and the grapes were amazing) and some watermelon. We ended with a homemade Tiramisu, a common local sweet, which is also one of my specialties. (I promise to share the recipe in the near future.)
Repeating it back the menu seems less imposing, but I tell you, by the time we hit coffee and a sip of “Ratafia” (a locally made cherry liqueur), we were ready to sleep for a century. It seems to me that good food nourishes the body, but also encourages you to nourish the mind.

Dinner at Pizza del Corso

Monday back again
Sept. 7,2009.

After a trying day dealing with silly things (the front door lock broke and I dropped, and destroyed our cell phone, our only means of communication), we finished the day at what is quickly becoming our favourite pizzeria. At “Pizza del Corso” you can get stuffed or regular pizza by the slice alongside pop, wine or a nice Perroni beer. On this night, we shared slices stuffed with ham and mozzarella, sausage and mozzarella and a “Margherita” or tomato and mozzarella slice. It was the perfect way to end a less than perfect day.
And a side note, I’m at the stage in the trip where I think I may have found my favourite gelato combination so far, chocolate, hazelnut and whipped cream. Hubby’s big into the walnut flavour with whipped cream, bless his soul. It’s all delicious though.

Salad of warm ricotta cheese with cherry tomatoes and olives.

Cortina D’Ampezzo
Sept. 6, 2009.

Cortina is to northern Italy what Cannes is to southern France and what Banff is to western Canada. It is a chic destination with trendy shops and lots of beautiful people to go along with the gorgeous scenery. After soaking up the scene for a little bit we headed out of town for a late lunch at a rustic mountain establishment with some very fine dining (kind of Nordic chalet meets chic restaurant). It’s a stop for cyclists, motorbike tourists and locals alike. It was a fine meal (emphasis her on the iiiiiii’s), the kind that could convince even the biggest mushroom phobic to love porcini mushrooms, or any other wild mushroom for that matter. And it puts those grocery store white mushrooms to shame. It could also make a dessert-lover out of the greatest skeptic. To be a completist, I’ll describe my menu for the meal. I started with a salad of warm ricotta cheese with cherry tomatoes and olives. Next papardelle (a pasta about twice as wide as fettuccine) with porcini mushroom and olive oil, and finally a molten chocolate cake served with a goose berry and a strawberry mousse on a walnut crisp that nearly made me fall off my bench. In keeping with the tradition of this trip, my mouth was watering so much that I forgot to snap a photo before digging in. If it keeps up I’m going to have to start snapping pictures of the aftermath of empty plates and wine glasses that comes with each meal.

Pizza Quattro Stagioni (Four Seasons)

A walk in the wild
Sept. 5, 2009.

After an hour’s hike up an “easy” path in the Dolomite Mountains with a friend we settled in at “Rifugio Laresei,” a refuge at the top of the mountain for some local fare, along with an espresso and some people watching. I had some “Gnocchi Con Ricotta Salata” and a green salad. Gnocchi are potato dumplings, which in this case were tiny little balls tossed in an herbed butter and topped with lots of salty cheese. It was the perfect conclusion to an an active morning. When else would I have an actual excuse for ordering something that rich? Near the end of the meal a group of campers aged around 12 to 14 took over the restaurant and provided the afternoon’s entertainment for us. It was quite a site to watch servers dodging a massive crowd of tweens ordering hot drinks and desserts and buying out all the chocolate and candy at the bar. Even Italian kids, it seems, will choose the convenience of a pre-packaged sweet when given the chance.

Later the same day, after a much shorter walk through a spectacular canyon, we settled in for another sampling of the best pizza Italy has to offer. I ordered “Quattro Stagioni” or “Four Seasons,” which comes with ¼ artichokes, ¼ mushrooms, ¼ prosciutto cotto (cooked ham), and olives in the middle. My friend made a fascinating observation at that point, saying she could never figure out which topping stood for which season. Brilliant.

We finished the day at one of the few places I’ve seen in Italy that will make you a dessert that combines ice cream and toppings…all I had to do was order the thing with the most chocolate. Yum!

Green salad, trout with salmon sauce and potatoes and fennel.

Back in the mountains
Sept. 4, 2009.

After hours and hours of snacks from roadside service centers we were relieved to arrive at a friend’s place in northern Italy’s Dolomite mountains and be whisked off to a local ski hotel for a proper dinner. Never has a tossed salad tasted so fresh. That was followed by trout in a salmon sauce with red peppercorns, yum. In Italy sides or “contorni” are generally served separately, or what we would call “family style.” This evening it was potatoes in tomato and braised fennel. I love fennel anyway (as you may remember from one of my earlier posts) and on this night it was spectacular, with an almost candied flavour. I also tasted a regional specialty, stewed meat served with grilled polenta, a corn-based bread. The meal was topped with some refreshing house white wine, fruit and espresso. I know they say being on the road helps you appreciated the tastes of home, but I think it also makes you appreciate a well-balanced, well-cooked meal with friends.

Siamo in famigilia (We’re among family)
Sept. 3, 2009.

Second home-cooked meal of our trip, and my cousin pulled out all the stops. There was an antipasto (appetizer) of good cured meat, even better cheese with honey and figs, glorious figs. Our first course was “Orecchiete al’ammatriciana,” or ear shaped pasta in a light cherry tomato sauce with finely diced pancetta and rucola (aka arugula and rocket). The question going through my head was “Is this what heaven is like?” Next we had beef stew with carrots, rucola salad with shaved parmesan and baked bell peppers stuffed with cheese and herbs, which was totally wow. Fresh fruit, homemade Tiramisu and fresh but store-bought pastries (our contribution) rounded out the meal along with a good, hot espresso. The meal also included lots of great conversation in two languages, covering topics including; politics, weather, cars big and small, populations, weddings, nepotism and the economy. Along with some homemade wine and lots of laughter, this is what a night with family is all about.

California roll at Ristorante Sushi Lucky Wok

Sushi in small town Italy
Sept. 3, 2009.

It seemed a little out of place. We found “Ristorante Sushi Lucky Wok,” which bills itself as a Chinese-Japanese restaurant, in the middle of a small to mid-size Italian town surrounded by cafes and pizzerias. Truly the only ethnic restaurant I’ve seen so far on this trip. We ordered sushi, and the Asian-Italian waiter immediately asked if we were Italian. I guess they don’t get much demand for raw fish rolls. We threw them for another loop when we asked for chopsticks, and we learned the Italian word for them is “bacchette.” I have to say the sushi was fine, which surprised me. There were some interesting variations, including a California roll that included banana instead of avocado, topped with mayonnaise. The rice was also not quite sushi rice, my theory being that long grain rice may be the only one available. All in all it was an interesting experience to order Japanese food in Italian and see a restaurant run by a family switching between fluent Italian and, most likely, Japanese.

Here’s the first installment of our food adventures in Italy. Hope you enjoy it! And if you too, come on back for more very soon.

Fresh bread
Sept. 3, 2009.

Is there anything better than the smell of freshly baked bread? First thing in the morning here, as you pass each bakery, the smell of freshly baked bread and sweets wafts through the air. I swear it’s a way better wake-up call than a rooster.

Osteria degli Artisti's Penne with Zucchini and Pancetta

Osteria degli Artisti
Sept. 2, 2009.

A new “pub” opened up around the corner from my grandmother’s house over the summer. It’s a place that seems to have a story. Gianni, who was serving, appeared to be doing some of the food prep, and was also the owner, seemed like a man with a past. It’s the kind of place you only hear about by word of mouth, but attracts a loyal clientele. My cousin’s family chose the locale, so we could walk home after sampling the region’s best vino. There’s no menu per se, just a couple of selections for each course depending on what’s fresh. We started with a simple appetizer of cured meats and aged cheese alongside a basket of fresh bread. The first course was a choice between penne with zucchini and sausage in a fresh tomato sauce or a bean soup full of Romano beans, lentils and barley. They were both delicious, both hearty and fresh. Our second course was “spezzatino,” chunks of beef with peas in a hearty broth. It was accompanied by a big bowl of tomato and basil salad was served family style for the whole table. Plus there was some fried Scamorza cheese that melted in your mouth. The meal was accompanied by two delicious bottles of wine, my favourite though was a regional delicacy called “Testarossa” (yes, like the Ferrari). The food was delicious, the locale was a lovely open air terrace, the weather was cool and clear and the company couldn’t have been better. It had all the trademarks of a meal to remember for a lifetime.

Gelato makes a meal
Sept. 1, 2009.

We bought our first gelato at a little place in the main square of a town called Avezzano. I ordered a cone with chocolate and bacio (a hazelnut chocolate flavour), and the server suggested some whipped cream. I was in heaven. We opted for gelato instead of lunch and I think it was the right call. It turned out it would set a pattern for the rest of our trip.

Later we decided to stay in for dinner. I made a quick tomato sauce with sausages on spaghetti. I don’t know if it was the sausages we picked up from the butcher that afternoon or the freshly grated parmesan cheese, but it was pretty good if I do say so myself. Maybe it’s the mountain air, but everything just seems to ‘pop’ a little bit more in Italy. I guess it could be the excitement of being on vacation, but whatever it is, I’ll take it.

Osteria Perrotta's 'Ne ‘nente' and 'Al Diavolo'

Il Diavolo Ne ‘nente
Aug. 31, 2009.

Big meal number two. Osteria Perrotta, a local pizzeria with a smokin’ hot wood-fired oven. We started with a mixed antipasto, a platter with cheese, salami, prosciutto, melon, grilled veggies, potato dumplings, rice dumplings and a frittata (a type of omelette) with truffle. That followed by individual pizza, “Al Diavolo” (Devil’s style) for hubby and “Ne ‘nente” (slang for it’s nothing) for me. The former had tomato sauce, mozzarella, spicy salami and aged cheese. The latter was a white pizza with pancetta (cured bacon), green olives, mozzarella and onion. It ‘s like I forgot how sweet onions can be. If they’d rolled the dough any thinner it would have been like paper. I love a crispy, wafer-thin crust with fun and flavourful toppings. And it went down even easier alongside a cool blonde…beer, that is.

First meal on the ground
Aug. 30, 2009.

A friend met us at the airport in Rome to help guide us, and the rental car, out to the small town where my dad grew up. About an hour’s drive later we had arrived at his home, where lunch had been kept warm for us, despite the fact that it was nearly 5pm. (Of course in Italy, lunch, the biggest meal of the day is usually served around 2-3pm, and dinner around 9pm, so it was far too early for dinner.) More on that later. We sat down to an amazing plate of homemade fettuccine in fresh tomato sauce with just a sprinkle of grated truffle on top. That was quickly followed by meatballs cooked in the sauce and stewed beef, plus golden potatoes done in fresh tomato. We insisted on skipping the salad, so two kinds of cheese and bread appeared. One was a fabulous, tangy, aged sheep and cow’s milk cheese. I’d share the name with you, but it doesn’t exist, it’s just cheese made by somebody locally and sold at the weekly market. Immediately afterwards, several kinds of fruit from the backyard appeared, including peaches and melons grown just outside the window where we were sitting. Dessert was a light ice cream cake coupled with a quick espresso. So for a first meal that was supposed to be no big deal, it ended up being a way to kick off this trip in style.