Zia Amelia's Buconotti and Taralli
You know the recipes. They’re the ones that are handed down through the generations, and every great aunt, grandmother and cousin in a family has a different version, but no one has the darn thing written down.
The recipes are instinctive. How much flour you add depends on the dough’s consistency, the humidity in the air, how fluffy you want it and whether it’s a Tuesday or a Friday.
Recently, my mother returned from a visit with a great aunt with some delicious covered lemon-filled tarts called buconotti and crispy bread rings called taralli. Both have versions that originate in Italy’s southern Calabria region, and are delicacies rarely seen outside the holiday season.
I’m never one to discourage baked goods, so I didn’t question the timing of the bounty. My mom’s story about how the recipes were explained to her, however, was something along the lines of how I began this post. You need a bit of this, so much of that, and more or less depending on something else. It seems the only way to learn is to watch an expert and try to measure and time things along the way.
Maybe that’s for the best, as only the most devout cooks and bakers will learn the secrets. But I fear that far too often a wondrous cookie, fantastic tart and unbeatable bread will be lost along the way. And many people will, like I did, wait too long to try to uncover the secret from those closest to them.
